 |
| Colourful Moroccan Tagine pots |
First impressions: I have seen plenty of Morocco on film and TV before going there and whilst living in France, I befriended many French people of Moroccan origin so I knew plenty about Morocco before going there. What struck me when I first got there was the stark contrast between the modern and the ancient. Marrakech airport was so new and shiny - the government had obviously invested a lot of money in tourism. But less than 5 km from the airport in the old town, where it feels like you're stepping back 50 years in time. Go out of Marrakech into the mountains and it could feel like you're stepping back 100 years in time when you see villages without electricity. But Morocco has plenty of rich people as well and the new town in Marrakech feels more like southern France than Africa. Such is the mix of the modern and ancient, the rich and the poor, where Europe meets the Middle East in Northern Africa: this is Morocco.
 |
| With my camel Jaz in Ait Ben Haddou, Morocco |
Getting there: If you are in Europe, there are plenty of airlines (including budget airlines) that fly direct to all major cities in Morocco. If you're not in Europe, then there are still a few ways to get there. Emirates fly to Casablanca from Dubai and Etihad flies to Casablanca from Abu Dhabi. If you can get yourself to Istanbul, then both Royal Air Maroc and Pegasus Airlines fly to Casablanca and Marrakech from Istanbul. Royal Air Maroc also flies to New York JFK and Montreal from Casablanca. When my friend David from Singapore visited Morocco, he had the choice of going via Paris with Air France, via Dubai with Emirates or via Abu Dhabi with Etihad - he chose Air France and made the most of his stop over in Paris! It is also possible to get a ferry from various ports to Southern Spain to somewhere like Tangier or Casablanca on the northern coast.
Transport: You have to bear in mind the fact that Morocco is a huge country. It is bigger than countries like Germany, Japan and the UK. You may forget that you're actually in Africa when you see just how modern and efficient public transport is in Morocco - the trains are modern, clean and efficient, just like their counterparts in Europe. The highways between the big cities are well paved and wide - that means that buses are able to travel at full pelt down these modern highways (unlike, say in Sri Lanka, where the roads are often narrow and in need of some repair). I would recommend that you use the trains whenever possible as they are so efficient and cheap - buses are even cheaper of course, but everything is just so cheap in Morocco compared to the west. It is only when you are heading inland, into the desert or mountains, or towards some smaller towns on the coast off the rail network that you should only use the buses (or hire a taxi). Domestic flights do exist given how big the country is - a flight from Casablanca to Oudja in the West is about 1 hour 40 minutes and from Casablanca to Tan Tan Plage Blanche in the south is about 2 hours.
 |
| With my friends Grace and Nadia at the Koutabia Mosque. |
Attractions: Boy, where do I begin! I am going to break the choices down into the following categories: nature, history/culture and adventure. In terms of nature, Morocco has some of the most varied landscapes all packed into one country - from snow capped mountains of the Atlas mountains to the arid Sahara desert to lush green valleys on the coastal lowlands to beautiful beaches on the Atlantic coast. It is also remarkably sparsely populated - now you may find that hard to believe when you look at the bazaars in the big cities buzzing with activity, but once you get out of the big cities, you just get this sense of space. Try staring into olive groves that stretch as far as the eye can see, or stare into the desert and realize you can't see any human civilization. The mountains have much to offer both in the summer and winter - there are some amazing waterfalls fed by the melt water that carve their way through the mountains, creating some of the most breathtaking mountain scenery in all of Africa.
In the big cities, you will be able to experience the splendours of Moroccan culture and history. The history of Morocco spans over 12 centuries and with various foreign occupiers over the centuries including the Romans, the Spanish and the French. Now the North African campaign in WW2 barely touched Morocco, that meant that the best of the Moroccan cultural heritage sites remained unscathed by the war, unlike say on continental Europe. From the Hassan II Mosque in Morocco to the Djemaa Al-Fna bazaar in Marrakech to the fortified city of Aït Benhaddou - there are just too many cultural sites to name here.
 |
| Travelling across Morocco - that's me on the far left. |
As for adventure - you've come to the right place. Normally a country offers one kind of adventure, eg. winter sports, but in Morocco, you can do several different kinds of adventure sports all within the same week, sometimes even within the same day! You can be skiing in Oukaimeden one day, then drive down to the Sahara Desert in Zagora for quad biking, buggy riding, paragliding and camel riding over the sand dunes. Or you can head west towards Essaouira on the Atlantic coast, for some of the best surfing available in Africa. Check out kite-surfing, which has become very popular in Essaouira. From Zagora to Essaouira, it is only about 400 km as a crow flies (well but the crow has to fly over the Atlas Mountains!) - such is the variety in the Moroccan landscape.
Weather: Well the first thing that may come to mind is the Sahara desert which does cover the interior of Morocco - and yes it can get ridiculously hot in the summer in Morocco. It can hit 50 degrees in the summer in Morocco in the desert - that's right 50 degrees. Ouch. But don't forget, there's the other extreme as well. Temperatures in the desert can fall below freezing at night and in the mountains, it can easily drop to below -20 degrees. We have to divide the weather in Morocco into three categories: coastal, desert and mountain. In the coast, you have the most pleasant weather, it doesn't get too cold in the winter, it doesn't get too hot in the summer and there's plenty of rain. In the desert, it gets crazy hot in the summer and the temperature can fall sharply at night, even in the summer - there's virtually no rain and there are often sandstorms. In the mountains, it remains cool because of the altitude even in the summer and in the winter, you can experience a large amount of snow. In fact, it is possible to ski in Oukaimeden and Ifrane-Mischliffen (though the latter is much lower and less reliable than Oukaimeden in terms of snow) in the Atlas mountains.
 |
| In the Majorelle Gardens in Marrakech. |
Depending on where you wish to visit, you need to pack and dress appropriately. Please remember that Morocco is a conservative Islamic country and you should always dress modestly no matter how hot it is to avoid offending the locals. If you intend to visit the mountains in the winter, please check out my winter clothing guide. If you intend to visit the desert, I haven't written a desert clothing guide (yet), but here's a good guide for it.
Food: It's good but I wouldn't say I was totally in love with Moroccan cuisine. Allow me to talk about the things that I really enjoyed. They do a good kebab - oh yeah, various grilled meats (including Merguez, a local sausage) on a barbecue, you can't go wrong there. Fried fish is also very popular - fish dipped in batter and deep fried, not specifically Moroccan per se as it's so international, but nonetheless very tasty. You must also try a Pastilla - it is a meat pie with a melt-in-your-mouth light flaky pastry. As there are plenty of nuts grown locally (cashews, pistachios, walnuts etc), there are loads of nutty cakes which can be very sweet but if you have a sweet tooth, then you'll love those. There is also a wide array of fresh fruits and vegetables grown on the fertile coastal plains which will make their way onto your dinner table.
 |
| Getting kebabs at Djemaa Al-Fna sqaure |
There's also a milkshake type drink called 'jus d'amandes' ('almond juice') - place a generous handful of almonds in a blender, add milk, honey, ice cubes and a few dates (or other dried fruit like raisins or dried apricots). Oh yeah. You get this incredibly sweet and rich milkshake which goes down so well when it is ridiculously hot in Morocco - but beware, since this drink does involve ice cubes, only get it from a shop where you know they make the ice from bottled water and not tap water. You cannot drink tap water in Morocco - you must only drink bottled water at all times.
Now here's a list of things which I feel are grossly overrated. Tajine - it is a bland stew with meat and/or vegetables. The presentation is great, I love those conical Tajine pots, but I just found it incredibly bland and had to reach for the salt and pepper. So sue me, I'm Asian, I'm used to stronger flavours. Harira - a local vegetable soup, again - bland, nothing to write home about. Couscous (you may see the term 'Couscous Royale' used) - again, nothing special.
 |
| My camel Jaz enjoying the views in Marrakech |
Drink: You will be offered mint tea wherever you go, even when you go shopping, it is a way for the shopkeeper to get you to linger in the shop long enough to finish that cup of hot tea so he can show you his goods. It is a national drink in Morocco. It's alright but after you're twentieth cup of the day, you'll be sick of it. If you finish your cup of tea, it will always be topped up by your host - so don't feel obliged to drink it all. It can be rude to refuse a humble cup of tea, but by the same time, if you always drink every single drop, you will find yourself running to the toilet all the time. It is okay to leave a bit in your cup, to indicate that you have drunk some of the tea but you don't want a top up. But here's a bit of French that you will need, "Excusez-moi s'il vous plaît, où sont les toilettes? J'ai bu trop du thé à la menthe. (Excuse me please, where are the toilets? I've had too much mint tea.)
Unlike some other more strict Islamic states in the Middle East, alcohol is available in Morocco for tourists. You can buy it in shops and supermarkets, most hotels will have a bar that will gladly serve you alcohol. However, you must bear in mind the fact that you are in a Muslim country and the locals do not consume alcohol. Nonetheless, Moroccans accept that in order to reap the benefits of tourism, they have to allow the tourists to consume alcohol - but in return, you should do so in the bars where it is available, rather than out in public, walking down the street swigging from a bottle of wine. Any public display of drunkenness will get you into a lot of trouble - be sensible!
 |
| In Djemaa Al-Fna Square at night. |
Prices: Generally very cheap but be aware. Some (not all, but some) locals are out to cheap foreigners of their money - I don't mean they will rob you, but say if you walk into a shop and there are no price tags and you ask (in English), "how much is this?" The shopkeeper will take one look at you and decide how much he can get away with - oh yes. If you give the impression that you're a dumb tourist, in Morocco for the first time, then you will be given "dumb tourist" prices. If possible, do NOT speak any English with shopkeepers. I can't stress this enough. Always use Arabic, French or Spanish - more will be explained in the language section below. Nothing screams "I'm a bloody stupid dumb tourist with too much money, come and rip me off and make me part with my money for I am such a stupid idiot!" than the English language. Trust me on that one.
Beware of friendly locals who speak very good English and try to be your guide - ignore them or tell them to leave you alone. Perhaps there will be a few who are genuinely trying to practice their English - but most of them will want to charge you a fee for being your translator/guide and they will bring you to their friends' shop/restaurant where you will be ripped off. I'm sorry if that makes me sound really evil and nasty, but such is the nature of the tourist experience with Morocco. I stand out in Morocco as I look Chinese (but speak fluent French & Spanish and a little Arabic) so I often get approached by other white tourists who need help/advice/directions but they don't trust the locals. That aside, everything - transport, accommodation, shopping, food, etc - is ridiculously cheap. A ski pass in Oukaimeden is about 10 euros a day, the equivalent in Austria would be 40 euros - that's how much cheaper it is.
 |
| This is the kind of architecture that will leave you breathless in Morocco. |
Language: Standard Arabic, French, Spanish (in the North), Moroccan Arabic, Berber. English widely spoken in tourist areas but beware of locals who speak English (see above).
Morocco has been a former colony of France and Spain, hence these languages are still widely spoken - although Spanish is far more widely spoken in the north than in other parts of Morocco. The locals usually speak at least 3 languages but this does not usually include English. French is still the dominant language and probably the most useful language if you do not speak any of the local languages. French is taught universally and serves as Morocco's primary language of commerce and economics; it is also widely used in education and government. Moroccans learn the French language at school. Secondary school graduates tend to achieve French fluency, many Moroccans become fluent in French in addition to Moroccan Arabic and use French as their second language. Spanish is spoken only by about 5 million Moroccans in the North and is not as widely understood as French.
 |
| In Ouarzazate, where the Sahara Desert begins |
Like I said before, English is very widely spoken by those dealing with tourists, but beware of friendly locals who claim they want to be your friend. English is at best a fourth, fifth or even sixth language for many Moroccans (after Moroccan Arabic, Standard Arabic, Berber, French and/or Spanish). What you may find is that some service staff will have a very basic command of English but will be a lot more comfortable in French and/or Arabic. I remember trying to get some information at Rabat airport and the staff member decided to try her English with me (since I look Chinese) and boy, she was struggling so much I had to put her out of her misery by telling her that I do speak French. Even if you speak only a little French, be prepared to use it.
If you look Chinese like me, then you will find that the locals will think you're Japanese (don't ask me why) and often will greet you with, "Konichiwa! Ogenki des-ka?" How do you reply to that? I simply use Moroccan Arabic (not standard Arabic but the local dialect) with them, "Labas lik sadiqi? Tasha-rafna!" For my Singaporean friends, that would be the equivalent of the blond, blue eyed Angmoh tourist coming up with, "Jiat pah bu'eh? Hoh sey-bo?"
 |
| In the Atlas mountains, stretching my legs. |
Beware: Gosh, just too many things for a place like Morocco - let me do it with bullet points.
- Aggressive beggars - just tell them firmly, "NO!"
- Overly friendly locals who want to be your friend - as above.
- Don't drink the tap water, be careful with food and ice cubes in your drinks.
- Beware of insects - insect repellent is always a good idea
- Be prepared for extremes of temperatures
- Traffic is chaotic - take extra care when crossing the road
- This is an Islamic country - do not do anything that may offend the Muslims
- When out in the countryside, beware of wild animals, especially snakes.
- Do not get lost in the cities - always plan your routes.
- Always double check your bill when shopping or in a restaurant.
 |
| A vulture's nest in the Sahara desert. |
Safety: Morocco isn't as safe as Europe but then again, at no point did I feel that my safety was compromised - I do have three experiences I wish to share. The first was with an aggressive beggar - this old man just followed me through the market, refusing to leave me alone and at times he tugged at my sleeve. I ignored him at first and then I just snapped and shouted at him in both Arabic and French in quite an aggressive manner. He then turned the tables on me by pulling that "I am so sad" face on me and people glared at me like, "you rude young man, how dare you shout at that old man like that, he is old enough to be you father, you are so disrespectful." Damn. Perhaps I was a bit too aggressive. Still, I didn't give him anything, I just walked away.
The second story is that of a man who kept following us through the town - again, I ignored him and told him to go away. I told him (in French) that I have travelled all over Morocco and didn't want his help. I was verging on being rude with him but after what had happened with that old man earlier, I kept my cool and instead, when I spotted some other English speaking tourists, I told him, "hey look at those two there who are speaking English, maybe they need your help?" Sure enough, off he went and latched onto those two.
 |
| A small village in the Atlas mountains - no electricity, no running water |
Onto the third story: I was with Nadia, Grace and Rob when we left a restaurant in Marrkech - we're all British tourists. Rob is white whilst Nadia and Grace are black (well Nadia is mixed like Obama). As we walked down the street, a policeman stopped Grace and Nadia and demanded to see their passports in quite an aggressive manner. I stepped in and translated for them (since Nadia and Grace didn't speak French) - volunteering my passport as well in the process. It seems the policeman wasn't interested at all in seeing my passport nor Rob's but was hell bent on interrogating Nadia and Grace. Good grief. I translated his questions and their replies and they were like, hey why did he single us out? Is it because we're black?
It seems that the policeman couldn't believe these black women could have British passports. In the end I had tell him, look we know these women, we are friends in England, what more do you want to know? We have co-operated with you, we've done nothing wrong. Do you want us to come back to the police station with you for me to speak to your superior? That was when he backed off - but boy, Nadia and Grace were not happy. Grace said, "I think he wanted us to pay him a bribe before he was willing to leave us alone. He thought he could scare me, huh!"
 |
| That's the four of us earlier in the day. |
When we got back to our hotel, I spoke to one of the managers there who told us, "yes the police do single out black people, because they come from African countries like Mali, Chad, Sudan, Cameroon, Niger.. they come to Morocco because they are on their way to Europe illegally, but many run out of money by the time they get here so they are forced to commit crimes to stay alive, feed themselves. Some of the women become prostitutes, the men... steal, do bad things... It is sad and I know the police do not always handle it properly. They need to protect the people but they shouldn't just assume that all black people are up to no good. I'm very sorry if they upset you."
Yes, that's one thing you will realize about Morocco - whilst we're on the continent of Africa, there are virtually no black people and most of the black people you'll see are tourists. The locals look very Mediterranean - but there is a spectrum: some look more European, whilst others look darker but no one is 'African' or black per se - they are Arabs, Berbers but not black.
 |
| In a small village lost in time, somewhere in the Atlas mountains! |
Comparisons: I suppose Morocco could be compared to any other country in the Middle East because of the culture, religion, climate and use of the language Arabic - but then again, it is also very Francophone, so it may remind you of other Francophone countries in Africa as well.
Do I need a guide?: Yes and no. I suppose a lot of this depends on whether or not you speak French and/or Arabic. If you speak French well, then no problem. - you'll be fine. If you don't speak French, Spanish or Arabic, then you will find it challenging at the best of times in Morocco. Something simple like going to a restaurant - you may find the menu in Arabic and French but not English if they are not catering specifically for tourists. Likewise, if you go to a train station, the lady behind the counter may speak Arabic, Berber, French and Spanish but not English - but honestly, no one is expecting you to speak fluent French - you only need the most basic phrases in French to get by in most situations. I freaking hate guided tours - especially the part where the tour guide leaves you in the gift shop for an hour. You can easily do most cities on your own - but for special day trips/excursions, there is always the option to join a local tour with a local guide. However, be warned - I went one such tour with a guide who was supposedly English-speaking and ended up translating for him as his English was so very limited.
 |
| A window in Casablanca - they don't make them like that anymore! |
There you go - that's my guide to Morocco. Any questions, please leave a comment below. What country would you like me to write about? Where are you thinking of going for your next holiday? Let me know, maybe I can help. Shoukran gazillan, merci bien, muchas gracias!
I am not sure which country I will be featuring in part 5 - how do you guys feel about Spain or Italy? Anyone interested? Maybe Turkey? Or even Iceland? Let me know!
 |
| You can enjoy 5 star hotels at 2 star prices in Morocco! |
No comments:
Post a Comment