Tourist season part 9: 上海 Shanghai

I wasn't planning to cover China in this series but since I do now have a friend from Singapore who is indeed going to spend a week in Shanghai over the holidays, Bryan this is dedicated to you my friend. I was a bit surprised that he picked Shanghai over Beijing - but there you go, he's already booked his air ticket so I am here to provide a guide to help him with his holidays. Bryan my friend, this is for you.

First impressions: Shanghai is one of the world's largest city in terms of population - 23 million people and is China's second largest city just after Chongqing (which has a staggering 32.8 million inhabitants). When I first arrived in Shanghai, it was the crazy queues at the airport that greeted me. Good grief. When I finally made it out of airport and was looking for the bus, I was bombarded by vendors trying to sell me telephone cards as well as just giving me brochures and business cards. It was manic and if I didn't speak Mandarin fluently, boy, this place would've been totally overwhelming. Be prepared for a very manic, crowded and exciting city.

The skyline of Shanghai glimmering at night. 

Getting there: Shanghai is extremely well connected to the rest of the world and is the main gateway for tourists into China. Most people will require a tourist visa for visiting China, though a small number of countries (including Singapore) enjoy a visa-waiver. Shanghai is also very close to a number of other popular destinations like Hangzhou, Suzhou and Nanjing - so many tourists who visit Shanghai do make a day trip (or an overnight trip) to one or more of these destinations. If you are already in Shanghai, then you really should try to do some of these day trips.

Transport: Now Shanghai has a very good subway/metro system which is very easy to use. There is also a comprehensive bus system which you may need to use if you are going to a destination which is not on the metro network. Given how the metro network has grown over the years, you'll probably be pretty okay just using it - but I've used the buses before. They are very popular with the locals as they are a lot cheaper than the metro (which is already ridiculously cheap by western standards with prices starting at 3 RMB or US$0.45). I have found the staff on the public transport surprisingly friendly and helpful - but then again, I speak Mandarin and I do wonder if any of them speak any English for foreign tourists. Probably not I suspect.

A monument by Shanghai stadium

Taxis are also reasonably cheap and if you are in a hurry, then you may want to take a taxi - but beware of rush hour traffic jams. If you don't speak Mandarin, get someone at your hotel to write down the name of your destination so you can just hand that piece of paper over to the taxi driver. Taxi companies in Shanghai are heavily regulated, though you may get an unscrupulous driver who may want to take a slightly longer route if he senses that you are not from Shanghai. Try this trick - it may work, it may not work but I always try it: tell the driver you at in a hurry, that you have a job interview or a date. Engage the driver in conversation - be polite and ask him to get you there ASAP and chances are, he will get you there in a jiffy.

I remember once, I had to get the very early bus to Suzhou (leaving from the bus station opposite Shanghai stadium) and for some reason, the metro was shut (some kind of planned engineering work). So I jumped into a taxi, told the taxi driver that I simply had to get on that 8 o'clock bus to Suzhou and the kind taxi driver drove like a maniac across town and got me there at 7:55 am. And he even refused a tip - how about that?

Yes I made it to Suzhou - it was a very, very hot day...

Attractions: In the words of a friend of mine who was born in Shanghai, "there's very little culture in Shanghai, it is a very new modern city. If you want culture, you should have gone to Beijing. In Shanghai, it's all about 吃喝玩乐 (eat-drink-play-fun)." There is an element of truth to that: there are no grand cultural sites of great historical significance in Shanghai. No terracotta warriors, no Great Wall of China, no Ming Dynasty tombs, no Forbidden City - and here's the reason why. The city is just way too young: in terms of its age, it can be compared to Sydney or Los Angeles. In 1843, it was a modest city of about 250,000 inhabitants. However, as a result of the treaty of Nanjing that ended the first opium war, the British established a small trading post in Shanghai. The British Settlement in Shanghai was founded on the Bund - the famous waterfront in Shanghai. This marked the rapid expansion of city's prominence as a trading post and by 1930, there were about 3 million inhabitants. Plenty of history? Not by Chinese standards.

Compare that to Beijing, for example, where there was evidence of a walled city dating back to 11th century BC. Shanghai is a practically a new born baby compared to Beijing in terms of age - but so much has happened in Shanghai since 1843. Where do I begin? The various foreign concession zones for the British, American, French, Japanese and other international communities (in the Shanghai International Settlement) made Shanghai a uniquely international city unlike other Chinese cities for many decades and it is evident today, in some neighbourhoods in Shanghai which do have a very European feel to them.

At Jade Garden, obligatory kungfu pose.

However, most of Shanghai is modern - tall tower blocks, shiny and new buildings that reach up to the sky, testament to this city's amazing economic prowess. If you're after malls and shopping centres, then you can spend days just shopping in Shanghai as they love their malls there. Whilst I do like shopping, I can get rather bored of these malls after a while because they all seem very similar after a while. I much prefer markets which are more traditional, offering a wide range of goods from clothes to bags to Chinese herbal medicines to toys. But be warned, you have to bargain and the shop keepers do expect you to bargain in such markets (even if there are price tags). You won't be able to bargain in a modern mall, but let me illustrate how the bargaining process is like in a typical Chinese market.

Limpeh: How much is this? (Picks up a T-shirt)
Shopkeeper lady: 200 Yuan.
Limpeh: Oh... thanks. (Puts it back down at once)
Lady: It's a very nice colour.
Limpeh: No thanks.
Lady: I can give you a discount.
Limpeh: How much then?
Lady: Just for you, 160 Yuan.
Limpeh: Still too expensive.
Lady: If you went to 新天地 - they sell this for over 400 Yuan, you're getting a bargain here!
Limpeh: Well we're not in 新天地 are we? We're in 浦东...
Lady: Okay fine 150 Yuan. That's my final price.
Limpeh: I saw another store selling something similar for just 100 Yuan.
Lady: Impossible, it won't be the same thing, the quality is not the same.
Limpeh: Thanks, I'm going to go.
Lady: How much are you willing to pay?
Limpeh: 100 Yuan.
Lady: No way. I can't make a profit at that price! I can do 130 Yuan.
Limpeh: Good bye.
Lady: Come back! 120 Yuan. Final offer!
Limpeh: 100 Yuan.
Lady:  I told you I can't make a profit at that price, 110 Yuan! 105 Yuan!

Yes you can bargain when away from modern malls in places like this...

You get the idea, if they ask for 100 Yuan, offer 50 Yuan. Whatever price they state, only offer half and stand your ground. If you don't like the price, just walk away and they will drop the price instantly. Oh and if you are interested in 'fake goods' (aka a high quality knock-off), then check out this guide here: http://www.movingtochinablog.com/shopping/shanghai-fake-markets/

There are a few gems even within Shanghai that are worth a visit. A good place to start is Jade Garden, Yuyuan 豫园 - it does look like a typical Chinese garden with buildings that look several centuries old, but don't be fooled. As this is Shanghai, these gardens were destroyed, ransacked, damaged and rebuilt many times over it's long history - but if you're trying to get away from the modernity of the skyscrapers and shopping malls downtown, then Jade Garden is definitely worth a visit. Jade Garden is set in an area known as Old Shanghai - which is a mix of genuinely old and run down buildings and some quite new buildings but built in a very classical style to keep in the theme of that neighbourhood. The whole area is extremely touristy for the simple reason that it is actually quite charming. It is a nice place to spend a few hours after Nanjing Road 南京路 wears you out.

That's me breakdancing in Jade Garden, yes I had a full head of hair then!

A personal favourite of mine is the Propaganda Poster Art Centre - yes it is a museum and a shop. You see, I am 36 and when I was a child, I would associate communist China with their communist propaganda art which is really iconic. You will not find any of that art in Shanghai today - and this museum has a really rich collection of this period of Chinese history from the Cultural Revolution period.

When I was there, there were a handful of Brits and Kiwi tourists and being fluent in Mandarin and English, I was able to function as translator for the tourists. The owner of the place Mr Yang had such amazing stories to tell and he is a fantastic story teller, recounting tales from the Cultural Revolution which he lived through. Some of his favourite posters have a story and he recounted those stories to me in Mandarin and I translated them into English for the other tourists, all of whom were totally fascinated by Mr Yang's stories. It's a shame that he doesn't speak English - as most of the visitors there are Westerners, not local Chinese and unless you spoke Mandarin, you wouldn't have the pleasure of hearing Mr Yang's anecdotes. You should not miss this attraction when you are in Shanghai!

With Mr Yang and Chairman Mao!

Otherwise, you can spend hours exploring the Bund, just taking in the energy of this city from the waterfront, gazing at the stunning display of skyscrapers on the Pudong side of the river. There are places where they try to capture the good old days of Shanghai in the 1930s (see video below), but sadly, I found all of them rather tacky and touristy. In any case, if you do run into bad weather, there are plenty of museums, malls, art galleries and even a huge indoor ski centre to keep you occupied. But otherwise, once you've had enough of this city, it's time to plan a day trip out to Nanjing, Hangzhou or Suzhou. They're all great destinations worth a visit - how much time do you have?

Weather: Shanghai is a city that experiences four seasons. Summers can be extremely hot, reaching the high 30s and winters tend to be rather mild with temperatures hovering between 5 to 10 degrees. However, all it takes is a blast of cold air from the colder interior of China and temperatures can drop below zero and you may see some snow - though it is relatively uncommon in Shanghai to see heavy snow. You really need to go further north or inland if you want to see proper snow. The city is best enjoyed in spring and autumn where you are spared the extremes of temperatures.

I wouldn't worry too much about winter clothing for Shanghai - you could turn up there all dressed for snow and it may turn out to be 14 degrees when you get there, so don't pack too much. Here's my tip: if you do find yourself unprepared for a cold snap, then go shopping. Heck it's Shanghai, it's easy to find quality winter clothing at great prices. For more on winter clothing, please read my article here.

Skyscrapers in Pudong, I was so so HOT!

Food: Do you like Chinese food? If you do, then Shanghai is a great place for food. If you don't then, don't panic, your choices are more limited but you still will be able to find plenty to suit your tastes. One of Shanghai's most notable dishes is 小笼包 "xiao long bao" (little dragon buns) - I've had good and bad ones. The perfect 小笼包 should have a thin but firm pastry skin which holds together a moist filling of meat and vegetables, so moist it is almost like a sauna in the bun and when you pierce the bun with your chopsticks, a puff of hot steam escapes immediately. Cheap 小笼包s will often contain too much doughy pastry and too little meat inside - you get what you pay for, cheap ones are lousy. Fillings can include anything from vegetables, pork, prawn, even crab.

The local hairy crab is popular in late autumn and winter - so if you are visiting during Shanghai at these times, crabs will always find their way onto the menu. Noodles are also a big feature - the local variety tends to be quite thick though the thinner southern Chinese variety is just as popular today. One thing about a Shanghai restaurant menu is that you will be able to find more exotic meats that you probably won't find in other countries - items like snake to jellyfish to civet cat may seem unfamiliar to many tourists but are very common to the locals.

Mind you, Shanghai is a city which attracts migrant workers from all over China - hence you will be able to find all kinds of Chinese regional cuisine in Shanghai and even if you go no further than Shanghai, you can still eat your way around China in Shanghai. I am particularly fascinated by Uighur 新疆维吾尔 cuisine from the far west of China. Try a spicy lamb kebab sandwich - it is street food and often ridiculously cheap. You should also try some 羊肉串 - lamb kebabs on satay sticks. Oh these are heavenly, succulent pieces of lamb on a satay stick, grilled over charcoal flame and then rolled in spices. Apart from lamb kebabs, they also do other kinds of kebabs, including the quite tasty squid kebab.

Incidentally, the word used for kebab in Chinese is 串- isn't it amazing how it actually looks like two pieces of meat on a stick? The Uighurs bake also some really delicious bread, so if you do come across a Uighur bakery, make sure you go in and try something. Just let your eyes and nose be your guide. There is also a kind of Uighur pizza - I'm sorry I forgot the name for it, but it is similar to a Turkish Lahmacun and just as delicious.

There is plenty of street food in Shanghai - there are stalls everywhere selling anything from bubble tea vendors to those offering Cantonese style dim sum favourites to others offering all kinds of sweet treats. Foreign influences are also making their presence felt on the street food scene in Shanghai - you can now get anything from Japanese takoyaki (Japanese octopus pastry balls) to quality ice cream to 煎饼 ('jianbing') which is like a local version of a French savoury crepe. Given how cheap street food is, it can be tempting to keep on snacking throughout the day, each time you pass a hawker selling something that smells good and looks amazing.

Otherwise, given how cheap things are in general in Shanghai, don't feel obliged to eat local all the time, eat anything you like. French, Japanese, Indian, Italian - you name it, it can be found in Shanghai. I went to a Japanese restaurant and had a sashimi binge there - I paid less than half the price of what I would've expected to pay in Singapore or London for such quality sashimi. This is Shanghai, you can get great value for money when dining out.

Shanghai is a great place for quality Japanese food!

Prices: Shanghai is a very cheap destination - of course, if you're after luxury, sure there are places where you can pay for the best luxury money can buy. If you go to somewhere like Xintaindi, nothing is going to be cheap. But otherwise, if you're after budget, accommodation can be dirt cheap but be warned, you get what you pay for. Everything else from transport to shopping to food is usually very cheap as well. However, since I have last visited China, the RMB has risen against the British pound and part of the reason why I found everything so dirt cheap when I was last in China.

Language: Mandarin and Shanghainese. I only knew two words in Shanghainese: "nong2 ho2" (你好/hello) and "xia3 xia2 nong2" (谢谢你/thank you). However, in Shanghai, you never quite know if you are dealing with a local or a migrant worker from another part of China, so everyone just defaults to Mandarin and I didn't hear much Shanghainese whilst I was there. The local Mandarin accent is fairly neutral and very easy to understand compared to other regional accents in China.

Plenty of Engrish in Shanghai!

English (or should I say, Engrish) is spoken by those who are dealing with tourists, such as the predatory touts who will come up to chat to you if you look foreign, wanting to be your friend. But they really just want to take you to a shop or restaurant to get you to spend your money - just politely say no or pretend not to speak English. Staff in high class shops, hotels and restaurants will all speak some English but staff at places like train stations, bus drivers and street vendors will speak no English at all. If you don't speak any Mandarin, then you need to learn. The most important phrases you need are those to deal with the very persistent beggars! Try something, "不要烦我" (Bùyào fán wǒ) "Don't bother me". Or "别跟着我" (Bié gēnzhe wǒ) "Stop following me". Or even "走开!" (Zǒu kāi) "Go away!"

English rating: 2.5 out of 5 in central Shanghai, dropping to 0.5 out of 5 when you get out of central Shanghai. Shanghai is a cosmopolitan city with a growing urban middle class - younger, richer Shanghai people would have all had at least several years of English lessons at school and would speak some English, albeit with quite a strong Chinese accent. So yes, in central Shanghai, even the waitress at the Japanese restaurant where I had my sashimi binge spoke reasonably good English as the clientèle at that restaurant was very international. However, once you get out of the areas where expats and tourists frequent, you will be dealing with locals who may not have studied any English at school. Certainly, it is highly unlikely that anyone over the age of 40 would speak any English. If you need to ask someone for help or directions, try to find someone younger. The locals are mostly quite friendly and helpful to tourists in my experience - whether they speak English is a different matter.

Engrish is fun.

I was on a bus from Suzhou to Shanghai and got talking to my fellow passengers - when they realized I speak English as a first language, some of them did try to practice their English with me. I really felt that there was a real willingness and desire amongst the locals to learn English and they're not afraid to use it. They do recognize how important it is to be able to speak English to communicate with the rest of the word. The quality of their English did vary - there was this young woman who had a slight American accent and she spoke excellent English. She was telling me all about her job with a construction company and we talked about the skyline of Shanghai being full of skyscrapers, like Manhattan. Then there was this boy of about 12 years old whose Engrish was barely understandable, like honestly, I had no idea what the hell he was trying to say even though he had been studying English for quite a few years.

Beware: I am a coffee drinker, I need two cups of quality coffee to start my morning and China just isn't a coffee drinking nation. Yes you have Starbucks in China and it is becoming popular amongst the younger generation - Starbucks in China is frightfully expensive mind you. But otherwise, you will often be only offered Chinese tea and if you ask for coffee, you may get some really vile instant coffee. I actually have my own coffee machine at home which allows me to make my own espressos and cappuccinos - I had to go cold turkey most days in China unless I could spot a western style coffee shop with loads of white people drinking coffee. It's quite a culture shock for me as I have no problem finding decent coffee in Singapore but Shanghai is quite a different story.

Found a cafe with proper coffee opposite Shanghai library!

Beggars may be aggressive but they are not a threat to your safety. Just be firm and tell them to go away. The locals do spit a lot - it is vile, it is gross - get used to it, it is China. If you make a big scene, you will only draw attention to yourself and they will still spit anyway. If you spot a spittoon, stay well away from it. Do not drink tap water, only drink bottled water and avoid having ice cubes in your drinks - the ice cubes may have been made from tap water.

There are some scams involving tourists - such as deliberately getting the bill wrong when you try to pay with a credit card. Always check and double check the amount - do not sign off a credit card bill for 4200.50 RMB when you have only spent 420.50 RMB. They would often try this on tourists who look ignorant, tired and don't speak English. When you actually spot the 'error', they would act innocent and say, "oops, sorry there's a problem with the machine," and act all innocent.  Also, be very careful when someone tries to convince you that some lump of jade or piece of Chinese art is worth a small fortune but you're somehow getting a bargain - if you are not an expert on jade or Chinese art, beware that there are conmen who will try to make you pay many times the real price.

Chinese propaganda art is a very popular souvenir.

Safety: Shanghai is actually incredibly safe - this is because of the harsh punishment dealt out by the state to anyone who tries to break the law. You should nonetheless watch out for pickpockets, keep your wallet, phone, passport etc in a place where pickpockets cannot reach. There are reported cases of pickpockets who target drunk tourists in nightclubs and bars - they will try to get physical with you by hugging you, kissing you, groping you - but really, they're just after your wallet and phone. Such pickpockets are often in cahoots with the nightclub/bar owners, so be aware when fraternizing with the locals. A bit of common sense goes a long way.

Comparisons: Shanghai resembles any other big Chinese city - but parts of it can remind you of European cities, especially in the French concession zone.

Shanghai in 1990 vs 2010

Do I need a guide? Surprisingly, no! Not for Shanghai at least, even if you speak little or no Mandarin. The public transport system is very good and you should be able to negotiate your way around the city. If you do decide to go on a day trip out of Shanghai, then it may be a good idea to join a guided tour for that as you will be covering so many different places in so few hours - trying to find your way around somewhere like Suzhou or Hangzhou whilst being unfamiliar with the public transport system there can be a huge challenge. Joining a guided day trip just takes the stress out of that excursion, though such an excursion will always include a visit to the gift shop. (Sigh.)

So! That's my take on Shanghai - it's been a few years since I've been there but it certainly left an impression on me. If you have been to Shanghai more recently, please leave a comment and share your useful travel tips, xia xia nong! Thank you. Bryan my friend, I hope you have a wonderful holiday there!

Yes I always breakdance spontaneously whilst on holiday...